By Olivia Baragwanath
Salt-kissed and artful, St Ives reveals its best side when you drift just beyond the busy harbour loop. Avoiding the tourist traps can elevate your staycation and provide some calm away from the hustle and bustle of the harbour.
We suggest starting your day at St Eia, where mornings ease in with good coffee, or linger later over a glass of wine and a handful of beautifully simple small plates. As the town gathers pace, slip west. Either to The Fish Shed on Porthmeor’s quieter edge, situated up on the balcony a laid-back spot for just-landed seafood without the harbourfront crowds. Or you can enjoy the Greek Mezze just below and be closer to the sand.
Starting from this side of the beach, in the name of exploring and immersing in nature you can trade the shoreline for open country and walk towards Zennor. Choose the softer inland fields for a gentler ramble, or follow the South West Coast Path if you’re in the mood for something more rugged, where the cliffs feel vast and elemental.
Whichever route you take, finish at The Tinners Arms, a centuries-old pub where walkers gather for a proper lunch and a well-earned pause.
A day of slow starts, sea air, and satisfying finishes.
