There are two Michelin stars on the door, but Da Terra doesn’t feel like somewhere that takes itself too seriously. The East London restaurant, opened in 2019 by Brazilian-born chef Rafael Cagali and his partner Charlie Lee, has built its reputation on something rarer than technique: genuine joy.
Rafael grew up in São Paulo, honed his craft in the kitchens of Spain and Italy, and found his creative voice in London. He and Charlie met at The Fat Duck, fell in love, and eventually turned that shared obsession with hospitality into one of the capital’s most quietly extraordinary dining rooms.
We sat down with both of them to talk heritage, happiness, and why the playlist matters as much as the menu.
Da Terra has such a personal story behind it. How would you describe the restaurant to someone who has never experienced it before?
My restaurant offers a personalised menu inspired by my heritage and my experiences around the world. I was born and raised in Brazil, then in my twenties, I left São Paulo and came to London, which is where I discovered my love of cooking. I also lived for some time in Spain and Italy, where I worked in multi-Michelin-starred kitchens, and grew immensely as a chef. Back in the UK, when I had the opportunity to open Da Terra in 2019, I felt ready to express my creativity and the great variety of inspirations I got from my travels and experiences through my dishes. Da Terra is a place where all these influences blend together smoothly.
You met while working at The Fat Duck, with Rafael in the kitchen and Charlie front of house. What do you both remember about that time, and when did the idea of opening something together first begin to feel possible?
I joined the team at The Fat Duck in 2010, and that was an experience like no other. From the multi-sensory cooking to the precise style, every day was a lesson. The multi-sensory elements, the attention to every single detail of the experience (the sounds, the table set, the smell), was a characteristic that intrigued Charlie too. He moved to The Fat Duck in 2011 – starting as a commis waiter, he worked hard through what proved a fundamental chapter of the restaurant. So, career-wise it was a milestone moment for both, and it marked an important point in our lives as well.
When I opened Da Terra in 2019, Charlie was working at the hotel school: he was very supportive throughout, and came to help us during weekends. As we started becoming busier, Charlie stepped in as General Manager, and we have been working side by side ever since.
Rafael, your menus draw on childhood memories of Brazil, your Italian heritage, travel and training. How do you turn something personal or nostalgic into a dish that feels refined enough for a two-Michelin-starred restaurant?
Yes, my Brazilian and Italian heritage plays a key role in my inspiration. My childhood memories of Brazilian food are very fond and full of flavour. The precision and techniques I use allow those flavours to stand out. My Italian approach to cuisine is to honour the ingredients. Of course, presentation also plays an important role, and I enjoy finalising the look on the plate.
There is often a seriousness around fine dining, but Da Terra is also described as joyful. How important is joy to the experience you want guests to have?
I believe that restaurant dining should always be a joyful experience that can also make you travel without moving from your seat. Many of our guests choose Da Terra to celebrate special occasions, so it’s important for us to match the joy and expectations they arrive with. It’s about what we serve at the table and the atmosphere in the room – that’s also why we select, for example, a very personalised Spotify list, with 80s hits and a variety of favourites from the whole team. We don’t want anything to feel stuffy.
As partners in life and in business, how do you balance the personal and professional sides of running a restaurant together?
Of course, it can be tricky to separate the two aspects both at the restaurant and at home. We support each other and share ideas, and try to set boundaries wherever possible, not talking about the restaurant at home, for example. By taking time to have regular conversations throughout the working day, we can often put our minds at rest once the service is over or when the shift starts.
Fine dining has not always had a reputation for being inclusive or emotionally sustainable. Was creating a different kind of workplace important to you from the beginning?
When opening a restaurant, it is important to think long term and create a good working environment for everyone. The joy we express through our dishes is important, and this should be first of all a reflection of the happiness of the team. My priority has always been to ensure that my team is heard, which is why we have a lot of debriefs before the service to make sure that everyone is doing well and that any issues can be addressed. The most valuable part of the restaurant is the team, who put their heart and passion into creating a beautiful experience for guests. Staff meals are a moment we prioritise – a chance to relax, switch off, and connect with each other.
Da Terra is known for having a team that stays. In an industry where staff turnover can be high, what do you think makes people want to remain and grow with the restaurant?
Our restaurant is like a family. We learn from each other and encourage each other to excel. I think that’s why our team is so united. For example, Maria Boumpa, our Wine Director, has worked at Da Terra since 2020, and I am very proud of her achievements – last year, for example, she was named IWSC UK Sommelier of the Year. Mark Tuttiett, our Head Chef, is also remarkable, as is the rest of the team. Connor Slater, our sous chef, has been with us 3.5 years. They trust the restaurant’s vision probably because everyone has a voice and can share feedback or propose new ideas. I make sure to take everyone’s perspective into account, so there’s a piece of us all in the dining experience.
The story of Da Terra feels as much about love, identity and belonging as it does about food. Is that how you see it too?
I think it perfectly captures the essence of the restaurant and the values we aim to express through our food and service. I am grateful for the opportunity to showcase my identity and heritage, and do it in a collaborative way with my amazing team.
Top image Rafael Cagali by Matheus Luz Cagali.
